BESPOKE PROCESS | Allan David Bespoke

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Custom suit and Bespoke Tailoring Process

"As a bespoke tailor, one of my greatest pleasures is first to recognize a client's vision and then to bring that vision to life."

- Allan David Sinclair

PROCESS

consultation

The bespoke process begins with the initial consultation. Clients are seen privately and by appointment, which ensures our meeting is comprehensive. During this time, I will gain an understanding of the garment's intended purpose. We select lining & cloth from a wide range of luxury fabric mills. Additionally, I take a complete set of measurements while taking note of stance and posture.

Consultation

Bespoke Tailor taking measurements for upcoming custom suit order

Close up of custom suit tailor measuring client for bespoke suit

pattern drafting

After the initial consultation, the work truly begins. I start by drafting a unique pattern which mimics my client's anatomy. The hand-crafted design is one distinguishing characteristic that elevates the bespoke suit as a luxury good. Suits that are made-to-measure or produced in a factory will use stock and block designs.

Pattern Drafting

Collection of Custom Suits Patterns hanging

collection of custom suit patterns hanging on wall

mark, cut & trim

Next, I methodically mark the pattern on the cloth. To increase the accuracy at this stage, I take note of the individual physicality of the client. With a steady hand & quality sheers, I begin to cut. Precision is paramount. All trimmings, linings and body canvas are now ready to assemble.

Mark, Cut, Trim

Custom suit tailor marking Japanese selvedge denim with tailors chalk

Custom suit tailor Allan David marking Japanese selvedge denim fabric with tailors chalk

bespoke tailor working on custom suit cutting fabric

Bespoke tailor Allan David holding large tailors shears and cutting fabric on a custom suit in progress

First Fitting

first fitting

The client is now invited back for their first fitting. We assess the overall fit and mark out necessary alterations where critical areas of observation are the collar, shoulders and balance. If they desire, I also note and alter any style elements. The suit is coming to life.

Custom made suits on mannequin in progress

custom suit shown in progress ready for a forward fitting

Custom suit on mannequin during the construction process

progress shot of custom suit before second fitting

rip, cut & smooth

This stage involves complete deconstruction and reconstruction with all alterations considered. The garment is now ready to be re-cut & the finer construction begins. All style details and client preferences are kept in mind when put together.

Rip, Cut, Smooth

Shoulder detail of custom suit in progress

Close up shoulder detail of a custom suit in progress

Custom Suit tailor in Calgary working on a bespoke suit

bespoke tailor Allan David cutting fabric while working on custom suit

second fitting

At this stage, a second fitting is integral to confirm previous alterations. Close to completion, the suit is now ready for fine hand-finishing. For a fully bespoke order - edges, linings & buttonholes are entirely hand-finished. Only the collar, sleeves, and finishing remain.

Second Fitting

Front shoulder detail of Bespoke Suits on mannequin

Shoulder detail on blue custom suit made by bespoke suit tailor Allan David

finished grey custom suit on mannequin in front of green wall

final product

The bespoke suit is now complete and ready to be picked up. The client is welcome to try on the finished piece to ensure everything is to their satisfaction. A completed piece will only leave my shop once my client is pleased with the results.

Final Fitting

Groom wearing Custom Wedding Suits in black and white

groom looking down at sleeve while wearing a custom wedding suit

Groom wearing Custom Wedding Suits and pouring champaign

groom pouring champaign wearing his green custom wedding suit with shawl collar lapel