Full Bespoke Suits vs. Semi-Bespoke: What's the Difference?

At Allan David Bespoke Tailoring, we offer two levels of craftsmanship: Full Bespoke and Semi-Bespoke. Both deliver exceptional fit, comfort, and quality—but each serves a slightly different purpose and client. Here's what separates them and how to know which is right for you.

Full Bespoke

Our Bespoke suits are the highest expression of traditional tailoring. Each garment is crafted almost entirely by hand, using time-honoured techniques consistent with those used on London's Savile Row.

Machine use is kept to a minimum—only where it's practical, such as long seams or darts. The majority of the work is done by hand:

• Hand-padded chest canvas, lapels, and collar

• The collar is attached, padded and shaped by hand

• All linings, facings, buttonholes, and buttons sewn by hand

• Floating interlinings throughout, secured by hand

• Additional hand reinforcements like bar tacks and D-tacks

• Edges and finishes are all completed by hand

The result is a suit with an incredibly natural drape, soft structure, and subtle hand-finished details that a trained eye—and the wearer—will appreciate.

Semi-Bespoke

Our Semi-Bespoke suits retain the same custom fit and core structure as Full Bespoke suits, but they use a blend of machine and handwork to reduce labour time and cost. This modern approach still delivers an outstanding garment.

Key differences:

• Chest canvas is still full-floating but padded by machine

• The collar is hand-attached, but the padding is done by machine

• Reinforcements like bar tacks and buttonholes are machine-stitched

• Fusible interfacings are used in select areas (front edge, sleeves, hem)

• Trousers are fully machine-made

The trousers provide the most time and cost savings, while the jacket retains many of the features expected from a high-end bespoke garment, such as a hand-shaped chest and full canvas construction.

In -person fitting

What Do They Have in Common?

Whether Full or Semi-Bespoke, both options include:

• A personal pattern drafted from scratch

• Multiple in-person fittings

• A full canvas front

• Hand-shaped chest and collar

• Significant ironwork for lasting shape and comfort

In terms of fit and overall feel, both are exceptional.

Which One Is Right for You?

Choose Full Bespoke if you value the highest level of craftsmanship, want the softest natural drape, and appreciate fine hand-finished details—even the ones most people won't notice. You're likely someone who wears tailoring often and understands the subtle luxury of an entirely hand-made garment.

Choose Semi-Bespoke if you're looking for a high-quality suit with a custom fit but don't need every stitch done by hand. It's an ideal entry point into the world of bespoke tailoring—cost-effective without cutting corners where it matters.

Trousers, in particular, wear faster and are less of a long-term investment piece than a jacket. Semi-Bespoke can be a smart, practical choice if you focus on a well-crafted jacket.

Both options are built to last, tailored to you, and designed to elevate your wardrobe for years. If you're unsure which path suits your needs, we're happy to discuss it during a consultation.