5 Essential Dress Shirts Every Man Needs

How Many Dress Shirts Do You Really Need? When building a foundational wardrobe, versatility is paramount. The aim is to curate a collection of shirts that seamlessly adapt to a variety of settings—from formal occasions to smart casual affairs. This is why my approach emphasizes solid colours, refined weaves, and timeless style choices. Below, you'll find my five essential dress shirts every discerning gentleman should own.

Understanding Fabrics: Twill vs. Poplin vs. Oxford. Before diving into the shirts themselves, it's worth highlighting the fabrics. Twill is my fabric of choice for everyday dress shirts. It has a soft, fluid drape and a more luxurious hand compared to the drier, crisper finish of poplin. Poplin, as a plain weave, is tightly woven and best suited for highly formal occasions. Twill, however, lends itself better to daily wear, striking a perfect balance between refinement and comfort.

Oxford cloth holds a special place as well. It's more casual, with a rugged texture and excellent durability. It's easy to care for, forgiving with wrinkles, and moves seamlessly from office environments to relaxed weekend settings. For those reasons, Oxford is my preferred choice when a shirt needs to feel a bit more relaxed without losing its sartorial edge.  For a deeper dive into the various shirt fabrics and how to choose the right one for your needs, I recommend reading The Ultimate Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Fabrics.

1. White Dress Shirt: The quintessential essential. A white shirt is the backbone of a tailored wardrobe. Whether paired with a sharp navy suit or soft grey flannel trousers, it's universally appropriate. Crisp and clean, this is the shirt that will never let you down, from job interviews to formal dinners.

   

2. Powder Blue Dress Shirt. This shirt is in constant rotation in my own wardrobe. It's flattering on every skin tone and easy to coordinate with nearly any colour of suiting. Subtle yet stylish, it brings a touch of colour while remaining comfortably within the boundaries of classic menswear.

   

3. Mauve Dress Shirt Mauve is a fantastic alternative for those who want to break from the traditional palette. Understated yet distinctive, it pairs beautifully with charcoal or navy suits. I've seen this colour win over even the most conservative clients—its quiet elegance speaks volumes.

   

4. Pink/Blush Dress Shirt. There's a timeless sophistication in a blush or pale pink shirt. Once seen as bold, it's now a staple. Its versatility might surprise you: it complements a broad range of suits and accessories, and its tone brings warmth and charm without ever feeling ostentatious.

   

5. Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD)- The OCBD is an indispensable piece for a smart-casual wardrobe. Personally, I prefer mine in either light blue or white for maximum versatility. However, if you're looking to introduce a subtle pattern without deviating too far from the classics, a pale blue pencil stripe is an excellent choice. For those who prefer not to include an OCBD in their rotation, a medium blue denim shirt is a stylish alternative that maintains a refined yet relaxed aesthetic. Add a chest pocket and a tailored front placket for a more casual, yet sophisticated appearance.

   

Why Choose Custom Dress Shirts? Off-the-rack shirts, while convenient, often compromise on fit, proportions, and personal style. Custom dress shirts, on the other hand, are built around your unique measurements and preferences. They offer a level of comfort and elegance that ready-made garments cannot match. From the exact collar height and cuff width to the drape across your shoulders, every detail is thoughtfully considered. You're not just getting a better fit—you're getting a shirt that reflects your individual taste and sartorial standards. Once you've experienced the precision and quality of bespoke shirting, it's hard to settle for anything less.

Styling Details: Once you've selected your fabrics, the next consideration is collar and cuff styles. My personal preference leans toward a classic collar and a one-button mitred cuff with a clean front placket. These elements offer understated elegance and maximum adaptability across formal, business casual, and even relaxed settings. While French cuffs and turnback cuffs provide a specific aesthetic, their limited versatility makes them less suitable for foundational shirts.

Similarly, dramatic collar spreads and button-down collars have their place, but when prioritizing timeless wearability, a classic collar reigns supreme. All shirts mentioned here can be customized to your preference, ensuring a perfect fit through a detailed measuring process.

These five shirts—solid, versatile, and flattering—form the cornerstone of a man's wardrobe. Begin with these, and you'll be well on your way to mastering the art of refined dressing. Ready to elevate your wardrobe with shirts tailored to perfection? Book a consultation and start your bespoke journey today.

FAQs

1. How many dress shirts should I own to start building a wardrobe? Start with these five foundational shirts. They'll cover everything from formal occasions to casual weekends. From there, expand based on your lifestyle—more if you wear shirts daily, fewer if they're worn occasionally.

2. Can I wear a pink or mauve shirt to a formal business meeting? Absolutely. Both colours, when rendered in refined solids and paired with classic tailoring, present sophistication and confidence without appearing flashy.

3. What collar style is most versatile? A classic spread collar is the most versatile choice. It accommodates a wide range of tie knots and flatters most face shapes, making it suitable for both formal and relaxed settings.

4. Are Oxford shirts suitable for the office? Yes—especially when styled well. Choose a soft colour, such as pale blue, or a subtle stripe. Add a chest pocket and placket for balance, and pair it with unstructured tailoring for an elevated yet relaxed office look.

5. How do I care for custom dress shirts? Proper care ensures your custom dress shirts maintain their fit, finish, and longevity. Always follow the specific care instructions for your chosen fabric. Generally, wash your shirts in cold or lukewarm water with a mild detergent and avoid bleach. Opt to hang dry your shirts to best preserve fabric integrity, and long-term appearance. For best results, iron while slightly damp, especially on the collar and cuffs. Custom shirts are an investment—treat them as such, and they’ll serve you impeccably for years.

6. Do you make dress shirts for women? Yes, we do. At Allan David Bespoke, we believe impeccable tailoring should be accessible to all. We offer custom dress shirts for women with the same dedication to fit, fabric, and craftsmanship. Learn more about our inclusive approach here.

7. How can I distinguish between twill and poplin?

The easiest way to distinguish between twill and poplin is by their weave patterns and feel.

• Twill: Look closely for a distinct, diagonal rib or pattern in the fabric. This diagonal texture gives twill a soft, fluid drape and a slightly more luxurious, robust feel. It's often less prone to wrinkling than poplin.

• Poplin: Poplin features a very tight, plain, over-under weave, resulting in a smooth, crisp, almost paper-like finish. It often has a slight sheen and can feel drier to the touch. Due to its tight weave, it's excellent for formal shirts.

For a deeper dive into these and other shirt fabrics, including their performance and when to choose them, I recommend reading "The Ultimate Guide to Men's Dress Shirt Fabrics" by Allan David Bespoke.